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Even though the supermarket provides a bewildering array of choices when it comes to tortilla chips, these are worth the effort.

• 8 fresh corn tortillas (the best ones you can find)
• oil for frying
• salt to taste

Arrange the tortillas in a stack and cut into 6 equal wedges. Pour about an inch of oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat to 350°F on a deep-fat frying thermometer.

Fry just a few at a time, turning occasionally, until crisp and lightly browned (about 1 minute or less). Drain on paper towels; sprinkle lightly with salt, if desired. Store in an airtight container.

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