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Book Review | ||
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Barbecuing Around Texas
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Book Excerpt:City of Lockhart - Black's BBQ - Rating: 8 A sign reads, "Black's BBQ. Est. 1932. Texas' oldest and best major restaurant continuously owned by the same family." Wrong? Prause's in La Grange wins the family longevity battle. But Black's did throw in the word "best." According to the courts, everybody has the right to call their whatever the best. I think Black's BBQ was thinking about Kreuz Market down the street when they had the sign painted. My suggestion is that Black's should drop Texas' and insert Lockhart's. I entered Black's after the big lunch crowd. I zipped right through the line, picked up my usual samples, and took a seat. Only a couple of other tables had occupants, and they stared at a sports game on the TV. >P> My slice of brisket had a 5/16-inch pink ribbon. Good sign. It took slices with my fork to sseparatethe meat. No fat appeared. The atoma was faint, and my bite disclosed superior flavor. I gave it a 7. The barbecue sauce had the basics with a mysterious something extra. Was it pickle juice? Sides: coleslaw, creamy potato salad, and pinto beans. Dessert: peach and cherry cobbler, apple pie, pecan pie, and banana pudding. The décor said Western. I looked at raw wood paneling, a great collection of longhorn horns, some nice mounted deer head trophies, and pictures of Lockhart High School football teams going back to 1909. Owner Edgar Black Jr. was out, and I talked with Nat Castillo, as employee about their brisket. He showed me their two long and open brick pits. After staring at so many rotisserie pits, these looked beautiful to me. Nat said they used post oak and smoked briskets eighteen to twenty-four hours. They did it in two steps. They put in sticks and brisket and fired up the day before. Early the next morning, they added more sticks. It was a manual operation. No gas. No electricity. No gauges. No thermometer. Barbecuing that satisfies the soul and not the machine. He said the only rub they used was salt and pepper. |
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